<In Memory of Azores is a travelogue written by Mark Twain. In this essay, he describes his visit to the Azores, a group of islands in the Atlantic Ocean between New York and Gibraltar. Through his observations, Twain presents the people, culture, scenery, and way of life on the islands with a mixture of humour, criticism, and admiration.
Mark Twain begins by saying that very few Americans knew anything about the Azores. Even the passengers on his ship had only a vague idea that the Azores were a group of small islands in the Atlantic Ocean. Therefore, he decides to provide his readers with some facts about the islands before describing his experiences there.
According to Twain, the Azores were mainly inhabited by Portuguese people. He describes them as simple, old-fashioned, and slow in their way of life. The islands had a civil governor and a military governor appointed by the King of Portugal. Agriculture was the main occupation, and corn was the principal crop. However, the farming methods were extremely outdated. People still used wooden ploughs, simple windmills, and oxen instead of modern agricultural machines. Goods were transported on people's heads, by donkeys, or in primitive carts because there were no wheelbarrows or advanced equipment. Twain humorously remarks that the people seemed unwilling to accept new inventions and preferred to follow the methods of their ancestors.
The author also comments on the lifestyle of the people. He notes that the climate is pleasant, with no snow or ice. Many families, along with their donkeys, lived together in the same room. Although he criticises their lack of cleanliness, ignorance, and dishonesty, he observes that they are generally happy and content with their simple lives. Their wages were very low, but since they measured wealth in the local currency, they considered themselves rich. The fertile volcanic soil allowed farmers to grow several crops each year, though only oranges were exported in significant quantities.
Twain further explains that the Azores remained isolated from the outside world. News travelled very slowly, and many people were unaware of modern communication methods such as the telegraph cable. This isolation made the people curious and easily surprised by new developments from other parts of the world.
During his visit, Twain tours a large Jesuit cathedral. He admires its silver altar, beautiful porcelain walls, artistic decorations, and ancient architecture. However, he also uses gentle humour when describing a tiny lamp that was kept burning continuously for a deceased woman's soul, joking that it would not matter much if such a small lamp went out. His witty observations make the description lively and entertaining.
One of the funniest parts of the travelogue is the author's donkey ride through the town. The saddles were unusual and uncomfortable, and the muleteers constantly shouted at the donkeys while running beside them. The noisy procession attracted many spectators. During the ride, one donkey suddenly changed direction, causing several riders to fall into a heap. Fortunately, no one was seriously injured. Twain narrates the entire incident with great humour, making it one of the most memorable episodes in the essay.
Although Twain criticises many aspects of the islanders' lifestyle, he greatly admires their roads, bridges, and public works. He praises the smooth roads paved with black lava, the strong lava walls, the beautiful bridges, and the remarkable cleanliness of the streets. Trees and vines growing over the roads often created the feeling of travelling through a natural tunnel. He even compares the roads of the Azores favourably with those of New York, saying that they are better maintained and more beautiful.
Towards the end of the journey, Twain describes the breathtaking beauty of Pico, one of the islands. The green mountain rises majestically above the white clouds, making it appear like an island floating in the sky. Before leaving, he mentions the abundance of fresh fruits such as oranges, lemons, figs, and apricots, but humorously says that he does not wish to write a detailed commercial report about them. Finally, the ship departs from the Azores and continues its journey towards Gibraltar.
Overall, In Memory of Azores is an engaging travelogue that combines vivid description, humour, satire, and personal observation. Through his lively narration, Mark Twain presents both the strengths and weaknesses of the Azores, leaving readers with a clear picture of the islands, their people, their customs, and their natural beauty.>